The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A serendipitous meeting during a tube journey in 1988 transformed the course of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the city's electric 1990s cultural landscape, moving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"That era was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be close. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that spontaneity."

Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is not the only one. In recent times, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. However over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a significant change. "I feel, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."

Shifting Attitudes

This shift is difficult to overlook: the growth of far-right politics, the pushback against so-called "wokeness", and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. In place of the hope of the late 90s, currently a different political force stands as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.

For Enninful, the antidote has long been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of influential figures from politics.

"People with a voice should use it," he says, referring to those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this period will end."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He takes comfort in the next generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

The beginnings of his career would shape a pioneering career characterised by boldness and representation. Enninful made history as the first male, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His tenure featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Importantly, sales grew.

"To overlook large portions of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has established his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since leaving his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "change-maker".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … all that gave me a sense of being between worlds."

Defying the popular image of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His path has involved challenges, including well-documented struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also undergone significant health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, not working, fearing I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This refusal to be defined narrowly has inspired him beyond the world that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who weren't given a spotlight at the time.

"The establishment often failed to promote the right artists because they weren't of the expected background," he states.

This project itself uses a unique approach, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is one component of a broader vision."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful operates as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His path, he feels, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the Edward of the 90s react to the man he has become? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We lost our home, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have underestimated me my entire life. But I am unstoppable once I’ve decided to do something."